Disassembly
1. Remove the forks (see Section 6). Always dismantle the fork legs separately to avoid interchanging parts and thus causing an accelerated rate of wear. Store all components in separate, clearly marked containers (see illustrations).
8.1a. Front fork components - XL models: 1. Top bolt; 2. O-ring; 3. Spacer-H to R (1987 to 1995) models; 4. Spring seat - H to R (1987 to 1995) models; 5. Spring; 6. Piston ring; 7. Damper rod; 8. Rebound spring; 9. Fork tube; 10. Bottom bush; 11. Damper rod seat; 12. Gaiter; 13. Dust seal; 14. Retaining clip; 15. Oil seal; 16. Washer; 17. Top bush; 18. Slider; 19. Damper rod bolt and sealing washer; 20. Oil drain bolt and sealing washer - H to R (1987 to 1995) models
8.1b. Front fork components - XRV models: 1. Top bolt; 2. O-ring; 3. Gaiter; 4. Fork tube; 5. Bottom bush; 6. Upper spring; 7. Spring seat; 8. Lower spring; 9. Piston ring; 10. Damper rod; 11. Rebound spring; 12. Damper rod seat; 13. Dust seal; 14. Retaining clip; 15. Oil seal; 16. Washer; 17. Top bush; 18. Slider; 19. Damper rod bolt and sealing washer; 20. Oil drain bolt and sealing washer - L to S (1990 to 1995) models
2. Slacken the gaiter clamp screw(s) and slide the gaiter off the top of the fork, noting how its bottom end locates around the top of the fork slider (see illustration).
8.2. Remove the gaiter
3. Before dismantling the fork, it is advisable to slacken the damper rod bolt now as there is less chance of the damper rotating with it (due to the pressure of the spring). Compress the fork tube in the slider so that the spring exerts maximum pressure on the damper head, then have an assistant slacken the bolt in the base of the fork slider (see illustration).
8.3. Slacken the damper rod bolt
4. If the fork top bolt was not slackened with the fork in situ, carefully clamp the fork tube in a vice equipped with soft jaws, taking care not to overtighten or score its surface, and slacken the top bolt (see illustration 7.10).
5. Unscrew the fork top bolt from the top of the fork tube.
Warning: The fork spring is pressing on the fork top bolt with considerable pressure. Unscrew the bolt very carefully, keeping a downward pressure on it and release it slowly as it is likely to spring clear. It is advisable to wear some form of eye and face protection when carrying out this operation.
6. Slide the fork tube down into the slider. On XL600V-H to R (1987 to 1995) models, withdraw the spacer, spring seat and the spring from the tube. On XL600V-T to X (1996 to 1999) models and XL650V models, withdraw the spring from the tube (see illustration 7.12). On XRV750 models, withdraw the upper spring, spring seat and lower spring from the tube. Note which way up the spring fits.
7. Invert the fork over a suitable container and pump the fork tube vigorously to expel as much oil as possible (see illustration 7.13). Support the fork upside down in the container for a while to allow as much oil as possible to drain, and pump the fork again.
8. Remove the previously slackened damper rod bolt and its copper sealing washer from the bottom of the slider (see illustration). Discard the sealing washer as a new one must be used on reassembly. Invert the fork and tip the damper rod out of the top of the tube.
8.8a. Unscrew and remove the damper rod bolt...
8.8b ...then tip the damper rod out of the fork
9. Carefully prise out the dust seal from the top of the slider to gain access to the oil seal retaining clip (see illustration). Discard the dust seal as a new one must be used.
8.9. Prise out the dust seal using a flat bladed screwdriver
10. Carefully remove the retaining clip, taking care not to scratch the surface of the tube (see illustration). It is advisable to compress the fork beforehand because then any accidental damage to the tube will be away from its main point of contact with the seal.
8.10. Prise out the retaining clip using a flat bladed screwdriver
11. To separate the tube from the slider it is necessary to displace the oil seal and top bush. The bottom bush does not pass through the top bush, and this can be used to good effect. Push the tube gently inwards until it stops against the damper seat. Take care not to do this forcibly or the seat may be damaged. Now pull the tube sharply outwards until the bottom bush strikes the top bush (see illustration). Repeat this operation until the top bush and seal are tapped out of the slider (see illustration).
8.11a. To separate the fork tube from the slider, pull them apart firmly several times...
8.11b ...the slide-hammer effect will displace the oil seal and bush
12. With the tube removed, slide off the oil seal, washer and top bush, noting which way up they fit (see illustration 8.11b). Discard the oil seal as a new one must be used.
Caution: Do not remove the bottom bush from the tube unless it is to be replaced.
13. Tip the damper rod seat out of the slider -you may have to push it from the bottom via the damper bolt hole (see illustration). Discard the О-ring as a new one must be used.
8.13. Remove the damper rod seat from the slider
Inspection
14. Clean all parts in solvent and blow them dry with compressed air, if available. Check the fork tube for score marks, scratches, flaking of the chrome finish and excessive or abnormal wear. Look for dents in the tube and replace the tube in both forks if any are found. Check the fork seal seat for nicks, gouges and scratches. If damage is evident, leaks will occur. Also check the oil seal washer for damage or distortion and replace it If necessary.
15. Check the fork tube for runout using V-blocks and a dial gauge. If the amount of runout exceeds the service limit specified, the lube should be replaced.
Warning: If the tube is bent or exceeds the runout limit, it should not be straightened; replace it with a new one.
16. Check the springs (the main spring, the rebound spring on the damper rod. and on XRV750 the upper spring) for cracks and other damage (see illustration). Measure the mam spring free length and compare the measure ment to the Specifications at the beginning of the Chapter. If it is defective or sagged below the service limit, replace the main springs in both forks with new ones. Never replace only one spring.
8.16. Check the compression spring(s) and rebound spring (arrowed)
17. Examine the working surfaces of the two bushes: if worn or scuffed they must be replaced with new ones - they are worn if the grey Teflon coating has rubbed off to reveal the copper surface (see illustration) To remove the bottom bush from the fork tube, prise it apart at the slit using a flat-bladed screwdriver and slide it off. Make sure the new one seats properly (see illustration).
8.17a. This bush is worn
8.17b. Carefully lever the ends apart and slide the bush off
18. Check the damper rod and its piston ring for damage and wear, and replace them with new ones if necessary (see illustration 8.16). Do not remove the ring from the top of the rod unless it is being renewed.
Reassembly
19. If removed, fit the piston ring into the groove in the damper rod head, then slide the rebound spring onto the rod (see illustration 8.16). Insert the damper rod into the fork tube and slide it into place so that it projects fully from the bottom of the tube (see illustration). Fit the seat onto the bottom of the damper, then push the seat and rod up Into the tube (see illustrations).
8.19a. Slide the damper rod into the tube...
8.19b ...so that it projects from the bottom, then fit the seat...
8.19c ...and push the assembly into the tube
20. Oil the fork tube and bottom bush with the specified fork oil and insert the assembly into the slider (see illustration). Fit a new copper sealing washer onto the damper rod bolt and apply a few drops of a suitable nonpermanent thread locking compound, then install the bolt into the bottom of the slider (see illustration). Tighten the bolt to the specified torque setting (see illustration). If the damper rod rotates inside the tube, temporarily install the fork spring(s), spacer where fitted, and top bolt (see Steps 27 and 28) and compress the fork to hold the damper rod. Alternatively, a long metal bar or length of wood doweling (such as a broom handle) pressed hard into the damper rod head quite often suffices. Otherwise, wait until the fork is fully reassembled before tightening the bolt.
8.20a. Slide the tube into the slider
8.20b ...then fit the bolt using threadlock and a new sealing washer...
8.20c ...and tighten it to the specified torque
21. Push the fork tube fully into the slider, then oil the top bush and slide it down over the tube (see illustration). Press the bush squarely into its recess in the slider as far as possible, then install the oil seal washer with its flat side facing up (see illustration). Use either the Honda service tool (Pt. Nos. 07947-KA50100 and 07947-KF00100 (XL models) or 07947-KA40200 (XRV models)) or a suitable piece of tubing to tap the bush fully into place; the tubing must be slightly larger in diameter than the fork tube and slightly smaller in diameter than the bush recess in the slider. Take care not to scratch the fork tube during this operation; wind insulating tape around the exposed length of tube, and push the tube fully into the slider so that any accidental scratching is confined to the area which is normally above the oil seal. A drift or punch can be used, but this does not help the bush enter squarely, and the angle narrows as the bush gets deeper and makes it more difficult to make a good contact with a hammer (see illustration). If using a drift or punch, wrap tape around it to prevent It scratching the tube.
If a new bush is being installed, place the old bush on top of the new one to protect it when driving it into place.
8.21a. Install the top bush...
8.21b ...followed by the washer
8.21c. A drift can be used to tap the bush into place
22. Remove the washer to check the bush is seated fully and squarely in its recess in the slider, then wipe the recess clean. Refit the washer.
23. Smear the seal's lips with fork oil and slide it over the tube so that its markings face upwards (see illustration). Press the seal into the slider, then drive it fully into place as described in Step 21 until the retaining clip groove is visible above it (see illustration).
8.23. Smear the oil seal with clean fork oil then slide it down the tube. Press it into the top of the slider with your fingers, then drive it in as described
Place the old oil seal on top of the new one to protect it when driving it into place.
24. Once the seal is correctly seated, fit the retaining clip, making sure it is correctly located in its groove (see illustration).
8.24. Install the retaining clip...
25. Lubricate the lips of the new dust seal then slide it down the fork tube and press it into position (see illustration).
8.25 ...followed by the dust seal
26. Slowly pour in the specified quantity of the specified grade of fork oil and pump the fork at least ten times to distribute it evenly (see illustration 7.14). Fully compress the fork tube and damper rod into the slider and measure the oil level, and make any adjustment by adding more or tipping some out until it is at the level specified at the beginning of the Chapter.
27. Clamp the slider in a soft-jawed vice using the brake caliper mounting lugs, taking care not to overtighten and damage them. Pull the fork tube out of the slider as far as possible then install the spring with its closer-spaced coils at the bottom (see illustration 7.12). On XL600V-H to R (1987 to 1995) models, now install the spring seat and the spacer. On XRV750 models, now install the spring seat and the upper spring.
28. Fit a new О-ring to the fork top bolt and thread the bolt into the top of the fork tube (see illustration 7.16).
Warning: It will be necessary to compress the spring by pressing it down using the top bolt to engage the threads of the top bolt with the fork tube. This is a potentially dangerous operation and should be performed with care, using an assistant if necessary. Wipe off any excess oil before starting to prevent the possibility of slipping.
Keep the fork tube fully extended whilst pressing on the spring. Screw the top boll carefully into the fork tube making sure it is not cross-threaded.
Note: The top bolt can be tightened to the specified torque setting at this stage if the tube is held between the padded jaws of a vice, but do not risk distorting the tube by doing so. A better method is to tighten the top bolt when the fork has been installed in the bike and is securely held in the bottom yoke.
Use a ratchet-type tool when installing the fork top bolt. This makes it unnecessary to remove the tool from the bolt whilst threading it in making it easier to maintain a downward pressure on the spring.
29. If the damper rod bolt requires tightening (see Step 20), clamp the fork slider between the padded jaws of a vice and have an assistant compress the tube into the slider so that maximum spring pressure is placed on the damper rod head - tighten the damper rod bolt to the specified torque setting.
30. Fit the gaiter onto the fork, locating its bottom rim onto the top of the fork slider (see illustration). Rotate the gaiter so that the breather holes are facing the back of the fork (see illustration). On XRV750 models tighten the lower clamp.
8.30a. Fit the gaiter, locating the bottom onto the top of the slider...
8.30b ...and making sure the breather holes face the back
31. Install the forks (see Section 6).